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Руководство покупателя

Чтение отчета по алмазной маркировке без переплаты

В докладе говорится о четырех вещах и подразумевается пятая. Только два из них видны на руке, и это не те два, за которые большинство покупателей платят премию.

Colour Stops Mattering Sooner Than The Chart Suggests

D, E and F are all described as colourless, and on a finished ring in white metal almost nobody distinguishes them. The published 1.50 ct solitaire in this range is E, described on the source listing as completely white. G and H still face up white in most settings and cost noticeably less. Warm metal changes the calculation again: in 18K yellow or rose gold, a G or an H reads perfectly well because the metal is already casting warm light into the stone.

Clarity Is A Threshold, Not A Scale

The question is whether an inclusion is visible to the naked eye at normal viewing distance. VS2 is described on the source listing as loupe clean, meaning you need magnification to find anything. Paying up from VS2 to VVS1 buys certificate grade, not appearance. Paying down to SI can be fine or can be a visible black crystal under the table, which is why SI stones should be seen, not bought on a grade.

Cut Is The One To Spend On

Cut is what produces fire and brilliance, and it is the only grade on the report that changes how the stone behaves in ordinary light. The eternity band in this range is specified at 3EX, meaning excellent cut, polish and symmetry. A poorly cut two carat stone looks smaller and duller than a well cut one and a half carat stone, which is the trade's least intuitive and most reliable rule.

Carat Weight Is Not Size

Two stones at the same carat weight can face up noticeably different in diameter, because weight can be hidden in a deep pavilion. The measurement that matters is the millimetre diameter. The published 1 ct stone in this range is specified at 6.5 mm, which is the number to compare, not the carat.

Check The Inscription, Then Keep The Report

A certified stone carries the report number laser inscribed on the girdle. Matching the two is a thirty-second job with a loupe and it is the only verification step that actually proves you received the stone on the paper. Keep the report afterwards: it is the document the stone is resold against.

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Which grade combination gives the best value?
In white metal, roughly G to H colour with VS2 clarity and an excellent cut. In yellow or rose gold you can go a grade or two lower on colour with no visible difference.
Is a GIA report worth paying for?
On stones above about half a carat, yes, because it is what lets the stone be resold. On melee and pave, no, because certifying sixty small stones costs more than the stones.

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